Tuesday, August 12, 2025

Why Every Home Buyer Should Get a Home Inspection Before Purchase

1) Uncover hidden and costly problems

A home may look perfect on the surface, but professional inspectors know where to look for trouble:

  •     Structural issues such as foundation cracks, roof damage, or sagging floors.
  •     Moisture problems that could lead to mold, rot, or pest infestations.
  •     Aging or unsafe systems like outdated wiring, failing plumbing, or inefficient HVAC units.

    These problems often cost thousands of dollars to repair, and without an inspection you risk inheriting them without knowing.

2) Protect your safety

Inspections can reveal hazards that aren’t visible during a casual walkthrough:

  •     Faulty electrical systems that could spark fires.
  •     Gas leaks or improper venting that could lead to carbon monoxide buildup.
  •     Mold growth in hidden areas that can cause serious health issues.

    Identifying these risks before moving in ensures you and your family are safe.

3) Gain negotiating power

An inspection report is a valuable bargaining tool. If problems are found, you can:

  •     Request that the seller repair them before closing.
  •     Negotiate a lower purchase price to offset repair costs.
  •     Ask for credits or concessions at closing.

    Without an inspection, you lose this leverage.

4) Spot unpermitted or poor-quality renovations

Many homeowners renovate without permits or use unqualified labor. An inspector can spot telltale signs of unpermitted work or substandard craftsmanship. This matters because:

  •     You could be forced to correct code violations.
  •     Non-compliant work may reduce your home’s resale value.
  •     Safety issues from amateur work may put occupants at risk.


5) Plan future maintenance and budgeting

Even if no major issues are found, a good inspection tells you:

  •     The remaining life expectancy of systems like the roof, furnace, or water heater.
  •     Which maintenance tasks will be needed soon.
  •     Which upgrades could improve efficiency and comfort.

    This lets you budget for repairs before they become emergencies.

6) Meet insurance and financing requirements

Some lenders and insurers require certain issues to be addressed before they will approve your mortgage or policy. Without an inspection, these problems could surface after you’ve committed financially, delaying or jeopardizing the purchase.

7) Reduce legal and financial risk

In most regions, home buyers are expected to conduct due diligence before purchase. If you skip an inspection and discover defects later, you may have little legal recourse against the seller. An inspection creates a documented record of the home’s condition at the time of sale.

A home inspection is one of the least expensive yet most powerful safeguards you can use when buying a property. It protects your health, your wallet, and your legal position, while giving you critical knowledge about the place you’re about to call home. Skipping it is like buying a car without lifting the hood — you might get lucky, but the risk of an expensive surprise is too high.

If you are looking for a home inspector in Ajax, Pickering, Durham Region or the GTA consider contacting moffatinspections.ca.

Why? Because that old house may look good in photographs, but guaranteed it is not in perfect condition. The walls and roof might give you clues that it isn't in good shape, but a home inspection will tell you more about the foundation, wiring and plumbing.



Wednesday, April 30, 2025

How to Budget for Repairs After a Home Inspection

A home inspection is one of the most important steps in the buying process — it gives you a clear picture of your future home’s condition. But once you have that report in hand, the next challenge is figuring out how much to budget for repairs. Here’s a practical, step-by-step approach.

1. Separate Issues by Urgency

Not every problem needs fixing immediately. Go through the inspection report and sort repairs into three categories:

    Immediate & Safety-Related – Faulty wiring, gas leaks, roof leaks, structural damage.

    Near-Term – HVAC system at the end of its life, water heater showing signs of wear, small plumbing leaks.

    Long-Term Maintenance – Cosmetic updates, minor landscaping issues, older appliances still working fine.

2. Get Multiple Estimates

Inspection reports usually describe issues but don’t include costs. Contact at least two qualified contractors for each repair so you can get an accurate price range. Prices can vary widely depending on location, materials, and labor availability.

3. Add a Contingency Buffer

Unexpected problems often arise once repairs begin. Add 10–20% to your repair budget to cover hidden issues — for example, opening a wall to fix a small leak may reveal mold or structural damage.

4. Prioritize by Impact on Value

Focus first on repairs that:

    Protect the home’s structure and safety.

    Prevent further damage (like stopping water intrusion).

    Improve resale value or curb appeal.

5. Consider DIY vs. Professional Work

Some repairs (like painting or replacing cabinet hardware) can be done yourself to save money. But safety-critical work (like electrical, gas, or structural repairs) should be handled by licensed professionals.

6. Use Negotiation to Offset Costs

If you haven’t closed yet, your inspection report is a powerful bargaining tool. You can:

    Ask the seller to make repairs before closing.

    Request a price reduction equal to estimated repair costs.

    Ask for a credit at closing so you can handle the repairs yourself.

7. Create a Timeline

Spread out non-urgent repairs over months or years to avoid straining your budget. This also gives you time to save and shop for the best contractors and materials.

Bottom Line:

A thorough home inspection by a professional (eg. www.moffatinspections.ca) is just the starting point. By organizing repairs by urgency, getting accurate estimates, and building in a contingency, you can protect your finances, keep your home safe, and plan improvements at a comfortable pace.

And if your home is older there's going to be more frequent repairs needed, and likely more expensive repairs. Just look at the roof and the wall on the house below. It is going to need a long list of repairs, and due to the design of the roof they need to be done by a professional.

 


Tuesday, October 22, 2024

Common Real Estate Agent Scams

Below is a list of common scams or unethical tactics that some real estate agents might use to make more money when selling a house:

  1. Dual Agency Conflicts: Acting as both the buyer’s and seller’s agent without disclosing the conflict of interest. This can lead to both parties getting less favorable deals, as the agent is prioritizing their own commission.

  2. Inflating the Asking Price: Overpricing a property to attract a higher commission, even though the market won’t support the price, leading to a longer time on the market or eventual price drops.

  3. Lowballing Offers for Personal Gain: Agents may convince sellers to accept a lower offer by claiming it's the best they’ll get, then flipping the property or reselling it at a higher price later.

  4. Bait and Switch Listings: Advertising a desirable home that’s already sold or unavailable to attract buyers, then steering them to other, less desirable (and often higher-commission) properties.

  5. Undisclosed Repair Issues: Hiding significant property issues (like structural damage or faulty systems) that would lower the price or scare off buyers to secure a quicker sale and commission.

  6. Pushing Unnecessary Repairs or Renovations: Suggesting unnecessary expensive updates, claiming they’ll increase the home’s value, while they actually just increase the agent’s commission on the sale price.

  7. Fake or Shill Bidding: Creating false interest in a property by having fake buyers (or themselves) place bids to drive up the price in competitive bidding situations.

  8. Pressuring Quick Sales: Urging sellers to accept lower offers by creating a false sense of urgency, claiming the market is slowing or that no other offers will come in.

  9. Kickbacks from Service Providers: Referring clients to specific inspectors, contractors, or mortgage brokers who offer kickbacks to the agent for steering clients their way, often without disclosing this arrangement.

  10. Misleading Marketing: Using deceptive language or photos that misrepresent the property, making it seem more valuable or attractive than it really is to get higher offers.

  11. Hidden Fees: Adding hidden or unnecessary fees (such as marketing fees, transaction fees, or “administrative costs”) to the final bill, which are not clearly explained to the client upfront.

  12. Fake Appraisals: Colluding with appraisers to inflate a property’s appraised value to justify a higher selling price, even if the home isn’t worth that amount.

  13. Manipulating Offer Timelines: Delaying submission of offers from buyers to create a bidding war or manipulate the timing to favor certain buyers (such as those offering a higher commission split).

  14. Misrepresentation of Property History: Lying about the home’s past ownership or sale history, including failing to disclose foreclosures, legal issues, or prior sales at significantly lower prices.

  15. Encouraging Illegal Practices: Suggesting ways to hide money, avoid taxes, or falsify paperwork to make a deal look better on paper, which could cause legal problems for the buyer or seller later.

These scams, while unethical and sometimes illegal, do occur in the real estate industry, so it’s important for buyers and sellers to stay informed and vigilant.

Friday, January 19, 2024

Plumbing Pipe Slopes

The slope of horizontal pipes in plumbing is crucial to ensure proper drainage and prevent the accumulation of wastewater and debris. The recommended slope for horizontal pipes is typically between 1/8th and 1/2 inch per foot, and this range is determined by several factors to optimize the efficiency of the drainage system. Here's a detailed explanation:

  1. Gravity Flow:

    • Horizontal pipes rely on gravity to move wastewater from fixtures to the main drain and eventually to the sewer or septic system. The slope ensures a continuous downward flow, allowing water and waste to move freely through the pipes.
  2. Velocity and Self-Cleaning:

    • A steeper slope (about 1/2 inch per foot) increases the velocity of the flowing water, but if it is too steep it can result in the water flowing too quickly and leaving behind solid waste that could cause a future clog. This higher velocity needs to be mitigated in order to help carry solid waste and debris along with the water, preventing the accumulation of sediment in the pipes. It contributes to the self-cleaning action of the drainage system.
  3. Avoiding Stagnation:

    • If the slope is too gentle (less than to 1/8 inch per foot), there's a risk of water moving too slowly, which can lead to stagnation. Stagnant water increases the likelihood of debris settling in the pipes, causing clogs and unpleasant odors.
  4. Balancing Flow:

    • The recommended slope range provides a balance between preventing stagnation and avoiding excessive erosion of the pipe surface. An excessively steep slope may cause water to move too quickly, leading to erosion and potential damage to the pipes.
  5. Code Compliance:

    • Plumbing codes often specify the acceptable slope for horizontal pipes to ensure that drainage systems meet minimum standards for functionality and safety. Following these codes is essential for obtaining necessary permits and ensuring that the plumbing system functions correctly.
  6. Uniform Flow:

    • Maintaining a consistent slope helps achieve a uniform flow of water throughout the drainage system. This ensures that each fixture, branch, and main line in the plumbing network receives adequate drainage.
  7. Minimizing Noise:

    • Proper slope helps reduce the noise created by flowing water. Excessive slope can result in turbulent water flow, leading to increased noise levels in the pipes.
  8. Preventing Air Pocket Formation:

    • A gradual slope allows air to be pushed ahead of the water, preventing the formation of air pockets that could impede the flow or cause noisy gurgling sounds.

In summary, the recommended slope for horizontal pipes in plumbing strikes a balance between maintaining a sufficient flow velocity for self-cleaning and preventing issues like stagnation, excessive erosion, and noise. Following these guidelines ensures an efficient and code-compliant plumbing system that effectively removes wastewater from the building.

Plumbing Glossary

This glossary should help you understand the basic terminology related to plumbing systems.

 

  1. Drain Pipe:

    • A pipe that carries wastewater from plumbing fixtures to a sewer or other disposal point.
  2. Waste Pipe:

    • A pipe that carries waste from plumbing fixtures, excluding human waste.
  3. Vent Pipe:

    • A pipe that allows air to enter the plumbing system, preventing siphoning and ensuring proper drainage.
  4. Combination Sewer:

    • A sewer that carries both stormwater and sanitary sewage.
  5. Public Sewer:

    • A sewer owned and maintained by a public entity or municipality.
  6. Building Sewer:

    • The pipe that carries sewage from a building to the public sewer or other disposal point.
  7. Building Drain:

    • The part of the drainage system that extends from the base of the building to the building sewer.
  8. Private Sewer:

    • A sewer that is not owned or maintained by a public entity but serves private properties.
  9. Septic Tank:

    • A tank buried underground that receives and decomposes sewage from a building.
  10. Soil Pipe:

    • A pipe that carries human waste from plumbing fixtures to the sewer or septic tank.
  11. Trap Weir or Crown Weir:

    • The bottom of the highest point inside a trap where water forms a seal, preventing sewer gases from entering the building.
  12. Trap Dip:

    • The curved section at the bottom of a trap that retains water to create a seal against sewer gas.
  13. Trap Seal:

    • The water in a trap that prevents the escape of sewer gases.
  14. Tail Piece:

    • A short length of pipe connecting a plumbing fixture to a drain or trap.
  15. Trap Arm:

    • The horizontal pipe connecting a trap to the drain line.
  16. Self-Scouring Trap:

    • A trap designed to prevent the buildup of debris by flushing away waste.
  17. Trap Primer:

    • A device that maintains water in a trap by providing a small flow of water.
  18. Soil Stack:

    • A vertical pipe that carries waste from upper floors to the building drain.
  19. Stack Vent:

    • A vertical vent that connects with the soil or waste stack to vent the plumbing system.
  20. Vent Stack:

    • A vertical pipe that provides air circulation to the drainage system and extends above the roof.
  21. Branch Vent:

    • A vent pipe connecting to the main vent stack or soil stack.
  22. Wet Vent:

    • A vent that also serves as a drain line.
  23. Siphoning:

    • The process by which water is drawn or pulled through a pipe, potentially leading to trap seal loss and the release of sewer gases.


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